Wednesday August 12th 2015. A wifi place in Kautokeino

Picture in front of sami museum

Tosca happy with a peace of reindeer skin

Tosca happy with a peace of reindeer skin


This morning Mikkel brought me to Kautokeino again. Like yesterday, I want to go back to the local cafeteria. But the inkeeper does not want me to leave Tosca close to the cafetaria. Because yesterday someone called her about Tosca. That Tosca was sad, left alone at her leish, or that she had barked or whatever other shit. No problem, I say and I think: f… you, bitch!
I walk to the Sami museum, ask if they have wifi and coffee, pay entrance fee and find a table and chair for working at the internet. Today I want to update last week’s blog and I want to work out the further route to Cape North. I need one more day or more for the planning.
Meanwhile, owner of my shag, Mikkel, has been waiting 2 days already for renewed connection to Wi-Fi, hoping that then I will stay longer with him. Tosca is located outside, next to the museum, on a mat, under a roof. Just what she needs, I think. She must also recover. After a couple of hours of work, I leave the museum and walk with Tosca to the local youth hostal because there is something to eat. I finish the sandwiches I prepared this morning, order some extra, work at the Ipad and go back to the museum to pay attention to Sami culture. People around me in the village all speak the absolute uncontrollable Sami language. Some are traditionally dressed and everywhere on the walls are pictures of the past. That’s how I pick up some information about this culture.
I wonder if I’ll still meet Ton and Eric. At the end of the day they are supposed to arrive at my lodge. We’ll see.
Back in the Sami museum, a helpful young man gives me an explanation. I ask him if I can buy the CD with characteristic Sami songs that he is playing at the moment. It’s our last one, he says, so I can not sell the CD. Too bad. We talk about the future of the culture, their language, their costumes, the reindeer husbandry, etc. He regards the land property rights as a major threat for Sami culture. Actually, the country belongs to us, he says, but in the past, the government has been alluring. If mines are opened, the government does not aknowledge our property rights. Everywhere the same song. If you can not beat them, join them. But that does mean the end of the culture, for whom’s bread one eats, his word one speaks.
After the museum I walk to Kautokeino’s youth hostel for some Wi-Fi connection, but the living room is closed. And who do I meet there? Ton and Eric. They look rather tired. They were figuring out wether they would check in at the youth hostel or at one of the campings, to go from here to an airport in ?? in a few days. We’ll see you !? I wonder where and when. I wanted to invite them to go to the pizzeria together, but now they first had to find shelter somewhere. O.K., then in the meantime I’ll go on to the “Italian restaurant”, alone.
The pizzeria was closed and was for sale.
Dinner at a gas station. Is very normal here. I called Mikkel if he wanted to pick me up and drive me back to my cabin. Mikkel promises me that he’ll pick me up around 8 o’clock p.m. Mikkel’s internet worked again. And indeed. Thus I can plan my journey for the next couple weeks, and also make arrangements with Rudi who is going to join me soon. Clothes in the laundry. Next I hang those outside for drying. Today, a day of rest and of planning. Not very special.

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