Reveille at about 7:15. We heard the splashing of the rain. Poor horse. Not really cold, but for the rest it was dogs weather. Tosca was lying under a shelter on a board, as usual . I keep mentioning the animals here in this blog, to reassure those who critisize me. Leon diligent as ever and Tosca enthusiastic as ever. And I? Muy enthusiastico, since I have a buddy. Jan still books the hostels for the next day. On the phone we no longer mention a horse and a dog. Then they already make objections in advance . Jan often keeps busy with Tosca so that I have my hands free for Leon. Although I can lead Leon kilometers with one finger, so often I don’t need many hands.
When we woke up this morning, although it appeared to drizzle, fortunately the sound of pouring rain was caused by the water that ran from the roof. So the day started nice again. The Perdon, the great hump of 400 m., we flew upward. On top it was time for taking pictures. On the road again, to Cizur Menor, actually a suburb of Pamplona. Along the way we met a group of Peligrino’s. I asked the tall blond guy of the group from where do you come? Iceland. I have an Icelandic horse, I say. Another pelegrino came from Romania. I was in Cluj-Napoca, I said. Oh, that’s my town. A large bearded Irishman pulled a cart with luggage. I was in Galway, I said. No, he came from near Dublin. An Italian girl was worth a sin, we thought, though she had her ( upper) lips botoxed we unanimously judged. A Korean girl spoke only three words across the border, so we were soon done with her. Guys, what a group. That’s the sad thing with me. I walk alone, or sometimes with one other person, as I walk in the opposite direction: away from Santiago. A picture! At noon a pub with a fireplace. Tosca was allowed inside and was spoiled with all sorts of goodies. Leon got stale bread. Pictures.
Tosca hates the stones
We went to the Inn of Cizor, that in our imagination was full of Korean lady’s, who were waiting for us. What a contrast: what a fucking bitch that hostess is! Dogs and horses are not allowed inside, a b s o l u t e l y not. Yes, we know … A b s o l u t e l y not !!! Yes, but … ABSOLUTELY not. I thought, if she repeats that one more time, I’ll rape her, be it with disgust. I answered: “We leave the dog outside and for the horse we are looking for a meadow. We ourselves don’t even want our dog inside”. A lot of arguing from her side and an lot of arguing from ours, especially Jans, side. When I see the dog inside, then … And she made a gesture with her hand along her throat. I explained that I have been making a pilgrimage for months, and that the dog never came inside, but that didn’t reassure the witch.
Again Jan and I were the only two in the inn. We showered, packed the warm radiators with wet clothes, wet shoes, wet towels and less than an hour later, there she is again. No cloths on the radiators. For those wet shoes there are news papers here. And the wet socks can also be wrapped in newspaper. 100 M. away there is a drying machine in a building. It seemed like she snapped her orders against a trained police dog. I thought, let’s tease her a little: it is not good for the radiator or for the shoes? Both of ‘m not! The heating is for warmth. Your shoes and clothing make just condensation. And how about showering then ?, I oppose. In the shower room is a ventilation system , according to her. It was not. It was freezing there and after showering the room looked like a Turkish bath. Ventilation? Are you preparing your meal here or are you going out for diner, she asked? Probably going out. She sighed with relief. I say to John: tonight we can crumble half a bread here on the floor. That gives her something to do tomorrow, that shrew. On the internet we had already read, that here often belongings were lost. May be it’s her, we thought. So we are warned.
In a few days we will be in the Pyrenees, in the snow. A good soldier also goes through mud. So that’ll be great fun again. The Pyrenees trail of the Santiago route has been closed due to the snow there. We will have to walk across the main road, which is kept free of snow for cars. Upon arriving in St. Jean Pied de Port next Saturday, Jan will leave for home, Rudy and B will come from the Netherlands for filming, and then leave the 23th, very early in the morning to go back home again. The 20th I expect Constance, the 25th Serve. For the time being I’ve been advancing very well,
Schedule: Wednesday, Dec 17. at Pamplona, the city of the bull run and then on to Zubiri.
Thursday, Dec 18 . Zubiri to Espinal or Roncesvalles
Friday, Dec 19 . From Roncesvalles to St. Jean Pied de Port
Sunday 21 ‘s Rudy & Bas arrive in St. Jean P P at night for filming
Route
the path on the Perdon was steep and very uncomfortable for Leons feet and also very unpleasant for Jans feet
top of the” Perdon “. Mainly metal sculptures of pilgrims
Leon for the first time with his cover, the cover fastened with elastic cords
View from West where we come from
lunchtime. Bartender feeds Leon, who is tied in the street before his bar 
bartender with his mother, who was missing a few teeth, and was not smiling in the picture. Too bad!
