Sunday August 16th 2015. Ascension Day. Suolovuopmi Fjellstua 18 km

Het gebouwtje midden in beeld heeft de slaapkamers

The building in de middle has the sleeping rooms. Diner in the building at the right.

Tosca maakt de blitz Tosca socializing.

Poedelachtige macho. Lijkt wel Idéfix van Asterix en Obelix

Poodle like macho macho. Resembles Idéfix of Asterix and Obelix.

De hele dag over de weg. Wel mooi weer

All day on the road. Weather is nice.

Miezerige berkjes, slecht in het blad

Lousy birch trees. Hardly any leaves.

Bestemming in zichtN

Destination becomes visible.

Vuolovuoppi fjellstue

Vuolovuoppi fjellstue

Today is a complicated day. Yesterday and today actually had to be walking days. But because I wanted to chat with Ton and Eric, I went to Kautokeino yesterday and stayed there one night. Today, T and E were going to travel 100 km by bus to Alta Airport. It’ll take me a few days of walking to get there. If I take their bus now, I can make up for the rest day (lost walking time) in Kautokeino. Moreover I can walk my route past Máze, a place where is supposed to be an inn. That seems more fun than sleeping in a tent in the jungle and dragging food for days again, like I planned. Moreover those chest pains do not go away because of that backpack and the pulling dog. That’s why I don’t walk easily and I have to stop far too often. Months ago I didn’t feel that pain. In fact, the chest only started to ache after finishing the 450 km. Kungsleden in Abisko. From Abisko I continued on the Nordkalottleden-trail. I had to take provisions for more than a week for a dog and its boss. The backpack weighed 30 kilo and grandpa’s ribs didn’t like that very much. I decided to try with a painkiller. At the gas station in Kautokeino I could get those. I take a hamburger, buy paracetamol and ibuprofen -200 mg. And go together with E and T to a busstop.
At first the lady busdriver did not want to take me because of dog Tosca, whose presence clearly frightened her. But she did not get rid of me that easily. I kiss Tosca on her cheek, hug her and demonstrate that she is less naughty than she looks. This lady bus driver was the opposite! She turns to the honored audience in the bus and asks if anyone objects to the dog. Nobody did. Stubbornly she did another attempt: is no one allergic to a dog? Again no reaction. She is allowed inside, but at the very back and under the couch. Quite unlogical, I thought. Then first the whole bus is infected with allergy and, moreover, everyone could be attacked. But I kept quiet and didn’t object. When we will leave the bus, I will let Tosca lovely lick the busdrivers neck for a long time, I thought. She’ll like that. I say goodbye to E and T and leave the bus at Máze.
 Where is a mountain lodge, a trekker’s hostel? One km. back, then left and  the fourth house at the left. So no. Again I stopped a car: 4 km.  into the direction you just came from. I still asked someone else, because in such a small community everyone knows everything. That person did not know anything at all. You know what? It’s already 3.30 pm. For lack of better I’ll just walk the stage I planned to walk tomorrow: another 20 km. to Suolovuoppi. It was about 20 degrees C., cool wind, hardly any mosquito’s, but instead there were millions of such damn  little microbugs. The rib pain was clearly less with those analgetics and at 9 pm we were in Suolovuoppi. Fortunately, because walking on asphalt on a road where traffic drives fast is no delight. My soles became painful.
Tosca was awaited by two mail dogs. One a beautiful Samojeed and the other a poodle-like thing whose only purpose was having sex with my Tosca, doggy style of course, because the missionary position is not common in the dog world. Fortunately, they had not finished their bowl yet, so I could give their food to Tosca.
Not a single visitor at the campsite. Can I have some food and a drink, I asked a twen who walked around there. Yes, he says, but then you have to eat outside, because inside I just cleaned everything. He consulted a woman in the kitchen, also aged between 20 and 30. The end of the song was that the three of us had diner together in the warm kitchen at the table. They both came from the Ukraine, but not from the war area. They were working here in summer. The lady owner of the camping was a Sami married to a man from the Ukraine. The Ukrainian man drowned a month ago when he was in a boat, on the lake behind the campsite. The Sami lady owner now was visiting her Ukrainian family- in-law. So the two holiday makers were king and queen at the camp site. We ate cozy. The woman said she was a lawyer, teaching English and German. And now, a holiday job on the Norwegian campsite. She did not speak Norwegian, barely German and some English. Makes me doubt about the employment opportunities in Ukraine. I think she even had children, who were now housed elsewhere in Ukraine during the holiday months. About a husband she didn’t mention anything. Those (men) seem to be less and less necessary nowadays. Soit! In the future a few  men will be needed anyway.
So there were hardly any visitors in the campsite except those two dogs. Around here is winter tourism. Shower was free, so the mosquito oil was washed out of my face and off my arms and I got my well deserved rest.

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