Tuesday 25th Nov. 2014 Baneza 22 km.


 Farrier at albergue. According to him Leon is not older than 6. According old the old man yesterday at least 12 years old.

Farrier at albergue. According to him, Leon is not older than 6. According to the old man yesterday at least 12 years old. image




De hoefschoenen

The hoof shoes

Haarverlies onder riemen v h pakzadel. Ik heb de riemen verwijderd

Loosing hair under the belts. I removed the belts

Close up

Close up

22 km. Leon spontaneously comes to me when I pick him up. Today he pulls remarkably little, so apparently he is not hungry. Leons droppings are also relatively soft, so he had a lot of green food, so he probably will not pull all day long for drinking and eating. Last night at the bar, I was assured that there was no farrier in Benaventeand Villabrazaro. But there was one 2 villages away . Moreover, while I was eating my raciones tapas, I received a text message from the Dutch Jan and Ana , who now live in the North of Spain. I got to know them years ago, at shepherd Ger’s in Epen (Nl). They had read on my blog that Leon needed new irons and sent me the name and number of the farrier, near here, named Louis. It almost seems there is an abundance of farriers here, so I set off on the road. Okay, I’ll just take a break, tie Tosca and then call Louis. With a lot of bumbling at the mobile phone I try to make clear what the problem was: today and tomorrow no time, he answered! Oh, but there is supposed to be another one two villages away. Tosca was released again. In her youthful enthusiasm she jumps with her filthy legs against my recently washed red jacket. Holy …!

The weather was nice, no coat, nice landscape, flat, easy to walk, road well indicated. Because of the mild weather, there are millions of those gnarly little flies. t. You feel them land, but once they are seated you no longer feel that they are eating you. They go to the ears, the gnats. An hour or so later in the village I again get a lot of attention. Mothers against their children: caballo. Have they never seen that before? I realize that we are also saying “baj” or “bajke” to a horse? Probably this origanally Spanish word entered our Limburg regional language in the Spanish time, in the 17th century, when Spanish armies crossed our province. I go to the bar on the central and of course also only square, ask for a herrador, a farrier, order a coffee and I am addressed by a Spaniard in Dutch. He had worked in Oss (Nl) for a long, long time. A farrier? I thought of asking him: Then – why – do –  we – speak – Spa – nish? Two villages to the North, next to the church. He is retired, but perhaps he still has his materials. Good, I thought and probably made happy again with another dead sparrow (Dutch saying), I walk on. I hear the 2nd iron is loose too. Reminds me of that simple primary school joke: 99 times tick and one time boom. Rara, what is that? A centipede with a wooden leg. O.k. then I’ll put Leon the hoof shoes on. That means tying the animals, unpacking everything, putting the hoof shoes on, getting dirty. Suddenly a phone with a Spanish number. In English with a strong accent I am addressed by Carmen.
I work for Pavo feed. Carmen was approached by a colleague in the Nl, who also works for Pavo and who on Facebook, I believe, had read my worries about Leon. Carmen would arrange for me to bring concentrates to the inn tonight in Bañeza. Carmen would also provide a blacksmith named Alejandro. I am happy again. Incredible that the problem is solved in such an unexpected way.
4 Roe deer cross the road a few hundred meters further, Tosca smells that when we arrive at that spot after a few minutes and I am excited again. Sweet of the Dutch Pavo-lady. When she reads this, I want to know who that is. So please post a reaction. Undoubtedly, like unknown Carmen, she is not only sweet, but also handsome ?!

Trotse jagers met greyhounds-hazewindhonden en konijn

Proud hunters with their greyhounds and a rabbit

I see four men with two large greyhound dogs running through the field, without guns. They are hunting. A rabbit jumps away, but is caught by the dog a few dozen meters further. I have read that many English competition dogs, if they are no longer suitable for the race, are dumped in Spain for the long hunt. Worth a photo. They waved and excited when they started off. Made new friends again. Just before arriving in Bañeza, I have lunch on a stone in the field. Leon gets the chance to graze and Tosca gets a little extra food. I see a whole field with solar panels and a plume of smoke. Every settlement here has a field with large solar panels that automatically turn to the sun.

In de verte de zonnepanelen en de beschaving ( rookpluim)

Far away solar panels and smoke, a sign of civilisation?

Beschaving in zicht. Zonnepanelen en rookpluim

Another text message. Marlie from Nijswiller. Whether I want a list of overnight addresses for the Camino Frances. That is the name for the route of the next 5 to 6 weeks. Of that route I have only the place names, but not the description and no inn addresses. So, please Marlie. Suddenly the angels come from heaven. I wonder what kind of surprise is awaiting me as for the inn. Probably nothing, because in the evening in the courtyard Tosca runs loose around and in general Spaniards seem rather afraid of Tosca.

Tomorrow Astorga, another route (Camino Frances in reverse), no guide book, only names.
Look, this is such an example of uncertainty, which is unpleasant and occurs daily:
At 4 pm I was at the pilgrims’ hostel in Bañeza. The formalities were finished within 10 minutes. Completed: Dutch passport, signing my pilgrim passport ,  getting pointed out everything, ready. Dozens of beds, spacious dining room and uncle Harry solo. From all directions here in the street people came to watchhorse Leon and me at the fence around the pilgrim’s inn., almost all at a distance. I only heard “caballo”. I meant to understand that an old woman, 50 meters from here, with a clearly audible volume, proclaimed that this was impossible: a horse in the street. So I immediately told the old men, to whom she spoke, to explain that in one hour the farrier would come and then afterwards Leon was going to leave the street. But then, did I understand the farrier well? Had communication between Carmen, Alejandro and me been clear? What if Alejandro does not take Leon with him, as was understood? Look, this is such an example of uncertainty, which is unpleasant and occurs daily. 10 Min. walking from here, before the village, I had seen a place where I could tie him up. That would still be possible. And while I’m writing this, in all uncertainty, yes, you do not believe it, Alejandro arrives. Today he makes the hooves o.k. and Leon can sleep with him. I’ll be back in one hour, Alejandro says. That’ll  cost a lot, one of the old men said. They looked into his mouth. That horse is not 4 yrs., but at least 12 or 14. Weeks ago fellow rider Vincenco said that too. Am I therefore screwed when I bought Leon? I still have official papers. Fake? Well, as long as Leon performs, I do not have a choice now. Meanwhile, the hour has already passed. It is about to rain and not to see Alejandro yet. It gets dark, I want to eat and I spend the time writing my report, for the inn on a bench. Anyway. I have confidence, so wait. Meanwhile I hear people chatting: olandes, medico, caballo. They already know everything, just like yesterday, when I settled down in the café there.

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